How to Improve Retention
- No sleeping on your face– protect your eyelash extensions by sleeping on your back and avoid smudging your face into the pillow.
- No rubbing, twiddling, pulling the lash extensions– constant repetitive movements on the extensions will loosen the bond and cause the extensions to fall off or can even damage the follicle.
- Absolutely no mascaras, liquid liners, gel liners– these items will dissolve cyanoacrylate adhesive. These items can also cause a sticky, thick build up at the base of the extensions, clumping them together which can lead to irritation of the eyes. If your client comes to you with mascara, strip lash glue, or a thick build up of makeup then a full removal and full set will have to be done. This is simply because the glue will not bond with the natural lash with a film of dirt around it, therefore they will just fall out.
- If clients wear mascara on the bottom lashes, they must remove this before they go to bed –this will transfer into the upper lash line and cause the extensions to get a build up at the base of the lash line.
- Clients must cleanse their lashes daily with a gentle water-based lash shampoo – this is to avoid any build up of natural oils, makeup and dirt to sit in the lashes. Any build up along the lash line can inhibit proper cellular turnover; blocking the follicle from oxygen which can lead to lash loss or an over production of bacteria which can cause infection, dry or irritated eyes.
- Avoid excessive heat and steam – heat can singe the tips of the extensions. Allow heat to escape from the oven fore sticking your head into the heat. Remind clients to avoid steamy showers. If a hairdryer is used to dry lashes after the shower then it is to be done on the coolest, slowest heat.
- Return for infills regularly– don’t wait 4 weeks to obtain a fill. infills are ideally done within 2 – 3 weeks. Make sure your client returns with clean lashes, and with no makeup on.
- Your clients extensions are just ‘coming out’ and they have lost more than normal and have not changed their habits –In this case there is a possibility your client has a protein build up or oils on their natural lashes. Pretreat with a saline solution to prime the lashes before applying the extensions. The saline solution will strip off any oils debris and proteins, allowing a healthy, tighter bond between cyanoacrylate and the natural lashes. Always make sure your clients lashes are clean before you infill. They should be doing a lash bath at least every other day to keep their lashes clean and this in itself will cause better retention. Before you infill you should double check the lashes are clean, if they are not take some time to really cleanse them with a lash shampoo and pre treatment saline solution. Remember it is down to your client to maintain this at home so if they don’t the time you spend having to do so comes out of there lash time.
- Your clients lashes aren’t sticking while you are working on them – This could be down to your environment. Cyanoacrylate is the bonding agent in your adhesive and it seeks moisture too cure, meaning your environmental conditions can affect the retention. Invest in a thermal hygrometer, humidifier and de humidifier to alter temperature and moisture levels.
So, if a client complains of poor retention, ask yourself:
- Are you assessing your environment throughout the day and making the changes needed?
- Should you be using a medium adhesive in higher humidity levels?
- Is your application speed TOO quick meaning placement is compromised?!
Another factor to consider aside from adhesive and technique is the individual client – what health are their natural lashes in? Some clients may have poor retention on their natural lashes, meaning no matter how well you attach the extension or how perfect the environment is for the adhesive to cure, the natural lash could fall out quickly being no fault of your own.
So, don’t panic! There are always answers to problems, just stay calm and be honest with the client about what it could be. This will help improve retention and keep your clients coming back for more!